Archive for the ‘hard disk camcorder’ Category

The History of Home Movies:

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009

In the 100+ years or so that home movies have been around, we have seen them evolve from use by only the extremely wealthy to anyone with a digital camera or mobile device. If we look at the major milestones in film and video development over the years, it’s easy to see how we got to where we are today. The next 100 years should be equally fascinating!

Overview

Since the first introduction of moving images in the late 19th century, we have been fascinated with its powerful entertainment and storytelling capabilities. Capturing the essence of people moving around, talking, and gesturing is the highest power of documentation. It surpasses the letters, diaries and still photography that previously had been the primary method of recording and communicating.

In a sense, the consumer-accessible film that became available in the early 1900s represents the 20th century version of what we now call user-generated content. From the moment that manufacturers like Eastman Kodak Company provided consumers the ability to take home movies on their own, the industry began a wonderful and complex evolution that has brought us to the YouTube video generation of today.

Now, anyone can be his or her own historian and upload moving images to the World Wide Web. But how did we get here?

Evolution from 16mm Film to Digital Video

The introduction of motion picture cameras and projectors in the 1880s created enthusiastic audiences for this new medium, and prompted wealthy individuals with the financial resources to go out and purchase a home movie camera of their own.

Early efforts at producing cameras and projectors for consumers were quite expensive, however, and to make matters more challenging, the early film was manufactured out of a nitrate, a highly flammable and dangerous material. Many of the early silent films have been lost due to their nitrate composition.

One of the more successful formats to subsequently emerge in the 1920s was 16mm film by Eastman Kodak. (The mm increment refers to the actual width of the film strip). Recognizing its significance, several manufacturers started producing cameras based on this format. Unlike the nitrate film of earlier years, the newer film was manufactured on a celluloid base, for greater safety. The cost for a typical family, however, was still somewhat prohibitive. Only the rich and privileged had the means to buy the equipment necessary. This fact galvanized the market into experimenting with less costly film formats for mass manufacturing.

This led to the introduction of 8mm film in the early 1930s. At half the width of 16mm, 8mm film was less expensive and easier to use. The 1930s saw other key developments as well, including the ability of sound and new color film for consumer use, including the famous Kodachrome film.

For the next few decades, both 8mm and 16mm film formats were used to make home movies, with average consumers preferring the smaller gauge of the 8mm film, and more professional videographers opting for 16mm. Home movie making continued its gradual increase in popularity until 1965, when a new format called Super 8 was launched. Unlike the previous formats, which required manual loading, it was housed in a cartridge system. Super 8 film was easier to use and less expensive, and helped expand home movie technology to the many individuals and families who could not afford the 8mm and 16mm formats. As a result, more and more people started to take home movies to record their family milestones.

One of the elements that facilitated the next major evolution in home movies was television. In the 1970s and 1980s, TV stations switched from film to videotape, which was easier to work with, more affordable, and could be viewed immediately – no more hassles of shipping off the film to a lab for processing. This made the evening news more “real time” than ever before.

While film was still the best media format for color and vibrancy, the ease of use and affordability of videotape could not be denied. VHS (Vertical Helican Scan) and Betamax had emerged in the 1970s as two competing formats, with VHS format eventually winning out. Consumer-grade videotape was available as VHS, VHSc (a compact version), and 8mm tape. The advantage of VHS-C and 8mm tape was that they enabled an even smaller videocamera to be used, instead of the bulky systems that were so heavy and cumbersome. Further refinements in technology also allowed for longer and longer recording times on the tapes, increasing from 30 minutes to several hours.

Consumers had quickly caught on to the advantages that the TV stations were already enjoying, and during the 1970s to early 1990s video camcorders and their accompanying VCR (video cassette recorder) systems exploded exponentially in popularity. An entire generation of young families was able to capture their children on video for the first time, using affordable camcorders and cassettes that were much easier to switch out than their predecessors.

This proliferation and increase in familiarity with home movie making paved the way for the digital revolution. Now that a majority of individuals had used camcorders, or at least viewed home movies made by other amateur videographers, the transition to digital was fairly intuitive. The first mini digital video cassettes in the 1990s prompted the manufacture of even smaller camcorders, providing the ultimate in lightness and portability. These MiniDV cassettes also offered extended longevity and many other advantages including digital image clarity and lower cost.

In the last few years, the most significant milestone has been the development of videocameras that record right to a DVD disk or to the camera’s built-in hard drive, thus eliminating yet another step in the process of transferring the footage directly to digital formats.

The power of digital video and the increasing sophistication of the Internet fortuitously converged in the early 21st century to create the phenomenon known as social media. Once video is in digital form, anyone can upload the content to the World Wide Web and make it accessible to hundreds of thousands of viewers. Consequently, user-generated content in the home movie world has moved from one-to-a few to one-to-many to one-to-millions. No more clunky projectors, clumsy camcorder hookups with a myriad of cables linking to TVs, or dealing with fragile physical media such as videotape.

The Future of Home Movies

Today, hundreds of moments are captured daily on digital video – there probably has never before been a generation that has been so completely documented in its every activity and movement.

Yet, boxes and boxes of unconverted old home movie film reels and videotapes remain trapped in families’ basements and closets everywhere. These formats, ranging from 8mm to VHS tape, pre-date the digital revolution.

Fortunately, there are new organizations and services that have formed with the goal of preserving these old formats and publicizing the urgent need to get these physical media into the longevity of the digital world as soon as possible. Organizations such as Home Movie Day ( www.homemovieday.com ) hold worldwide celebrations to commemorate amateur filmmaking, and provide a venue where families can screen their old home movies to catch a glimpse of their heritage.

In the last 100+ years, moving images have become increasingly more affordable, convenient, and accessible through a variety of devices, whether it’s television, computers, cellphones, or other mobile devices. More than ever, we have the ability to record and view personal slices of life to add to the professional footage captured as part of broadcast news segments, documentaries, and Hollywood films. It will be interesting to see what the future brings as video user-generated content matures. If history is any example, the trend toward lighter, faster, easier, less expensive and more widely shared home movies will continue.

About iMemories

iMemories is a leader in the dynamic Web 2.0-generation of Internet services. The company transforms old-media memories into crystal-clear digital files that consumers can enjoy and share—whenever and wherever they like.

In iMemories’ 8,500-square foot fiber-optic studio, production professionals use state-of-the-art technology and techniques to convert old home-movie films, videotapes, photographs and slides into organized archives and full-length digital productions. Memories that were deteriorating in the dark are preserved forever on optical disc—and easy to edit, organize, store and share worldwide through iMemories’ private, secure online user experience.

Share online video with family and friends. Home Movies on DVD.America’s #1 trusted brand for transferring home movies to DVD.

©1998-2007 iMemories. iMemories name and iMemories mark are trademarks of iMemories, LLC. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners.

Disclaimer:

This article is provided as an educational guide for iMemories customers. Use of or reliance upon the information set forth in this article shall be at the reader’s own risk, and shall not establish any contractual or other legal relationship between the author and the users of this information.

Sources:

Background information for this article was obtained from the following sources:

www.ce.org

www.homemovieday.com

www.kodak.com

www.wikipedia.org

Transfer Vhs to DVD – Don’t Lose Your Precious Home Movies

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009

You may have old vhs tapes or 8mm full of memories stacked somewhere. I have bad news, those precious moments recorded are not gonna last forever. Yes, they are fading. Fortunately good quality DVDs last much longer. You probably have many home movies on vhs tapes that need transfer to DVD.If you want to preserve these old movies you will need to transfer vhs to DVD. The process is a little more complicated that converting other formats, because most vhs videos are recorded on tapes and are not stored elsewhere. Besides paying somebody to do this, there are 3 ways to transfer vhs to DVD or 8mm dvd transfer;You can use your computer with a capture card or USB device. Mind you, you need a lot of space on your hard drive. At least 5GB. Hard drives or disks are cheap, but if you want to use free space on your hard drive, make sure you defragment your disk first.To transfer VHS to DVD you will need to hook up the VHS player to your computer.Your best quality option is using the S-video output (if you have one) on your VHS player. Next options are using the yellow analog video (RCA) composite output.You may want to use a digital camcorder (or DV) if you have the appropriate inputs available.If you have a dvd and want to use a video converter to make the video friendly for your little device, this is completely understandable as many different formats can be used from dvds to little devices. Videora is a straightforward video converter program that will get your dvds running quickly and smoothly on your iPod. The most time consuming way is to capture the vhs video using an analog-to-DV converter. If you want to make edits to your existing video, this is the best option, though it will take you hours if you really want to edit all the parts you don’t want on the final dvd.This way of conversion limits the opportunities to edit the video but converting one hour of video takes only one hour. After you have converted the video to MPEG-2, the next step is to record the dvd. Vhs will automatically be converted to dvd and the dvds will also be created. If you want to transfer your movie from vhs to dvd without making whatsoever edits, this is the best way to do it. You can free up hard drive space by storing your video clips on CD or DVD once you’re done editing them. Handy tip: If you own an analog camcorder, you do NOT need to go out and buy a digital camcorder in order to make DVDs or internet videos.

Retrieve Inaccessible Data From CD and DVD Media

Monday, December 14th, 2009

Did you just put a perfectly fine looking CD or DVD into your computer, only to find that your PC does not see any files on it? Does your computer fail to read an important file from a recordable media?

CDRoller by Digital Atlantic Corp. (http://www.cdroller.com/) will read the unreadable media, and gain access to inaccessible or damaged files.

Sometimes you scratch a disk, and sometimes they go bad because of the storage conditions, or even their age. You might get a disk recorded with a faulty CD or DVD burner, or created with non-standard or badly configured CD/DVD mastering software. Low quality media is also common. The disks may be cheap, but they make data reads unsure even on the CD/DVD burner with which they were recorded, and even worse on different drives.

If you try to copy damaged files from such disks by using Windows Explorer, you most likely won’t get anything. Your PC may even freeze for a moment trying to access unreadable data. Recovering files with an expensive dedicated data recovery service was the only option available until very recently.

CDRoller does not use standard methods to access damaged media. Instead, it accesses CD and DVD disks directly, scanning the surface track by track and searching for lost data and deleted files. CDRoller recognizes most popular CD and DVD authoring software such as Roxio, Ahead Nero Burning Rom, and Sonic, and accesses data directly, bypassing Windows default routines.

Even if your disk is scratched or physically damaged, CDRoller may still be able to rescue your important files. It scans the disk surface thoroughly and re-creates its file and directory structure, allowing you to recover files that you thought were lost forever.

Every now and then you might even encounter a disk that is not recognized by your PC at all. This might be due to extreme data corruption, but there also might actually be nothing wrong with the disk itself. Maybe that CD or DVD is just not intended for being viewed on a PC. It may be a movie recorded with a DVD camcorder, or a TV capture made with a standalone DVD recorder, or even a photo CD created with a Sony Mavica CD digital camera. Generally, you won’t be able to play such disks on your PC. But what if you still want that movie or those pictures on your computer?

CDRoller recognizes most stand-alone DVD recorders, video camcorders and digital photo cameras. You will be able to recover DVD video into standard MPEG files that are ready to play back with Windows Media Player, and copy digital pictures from your photo albums to your PC.

Even if none of your disks are bad at the moment, it still makes sense to ensure that they are not developing problems, and that you will be able to read your important data tomorrow as successfully as you can today. Sometimes you can open a file with no visible problem, but in fact Windows is trying hard to read that particular disk by slowing down the reader or re-reading the same file several times until it gets the data correctly.

CDRoller includes an extensive CD/DVD integrity tester that scans your media and reports any potential problems such as unsure reads or multiple attempts to read a file. And just in case you need to burn a disk or erase a re-writable one, CDRoller also comes with a built-in CD/DVD data burner and eraser.

CDRoller is available as a free evaluation download. Get your copy now at http://www.cdroller.com/, or read what others have to say on how it saved their important data by visiting http://www.cdroller.com/htm/success.html

How to Convert MTS/M2TS Files to AVI, MP4, 3GP, etc. on Windows and Mac

Monday, December 14th, 2009

M2TS is Sony high definition video file type. M2TS files are raw AVCHD videos recorded using Sony’s camcorders, such as the HDR-SR1 and HDR-SR5 models. Panasonic, Canon and other brands of AVCHD camcorders also record in M2TS format.

Currently, M2TS files can be played using the Picture Motion Browser, which is an application video player provided with Sony AVCHD camcorders. M2TS files can also be played with Mplayer, Windows Media Player and other media players if there is a codec for DVD playing installed. But the file type .M2TS is not always automatically associated with the player, so it may be necessary to open it from the player. That’s to say, it’s not convenient to play and enjoy your M2TS video.

With AVCHD camcorders (like Canon VIXIA HF200, Canon FS200, Canon VIXIA HFS100, Canon VIXIA HG21, Panasonic HDC-HS300, Panasonic HDC-HS20, Sony HDR-CX100, Sony DCR-SR47, JVC GZ-HD40, JVC GZ-HD10 etc. record videos in MTS/M2TS format), you typically need to connect the HD video camera to your PC or Mac using a USB cable. Once connected and powered on, the camcorder should appear on the desktop as a new disk. The location of the films on the camcorders disk will vary depending on manufacturer. It is necessary that you copy the movies to your hard-drive before converting or editing it.

How to convert .M2TS files to popular video formats such as AVI, MPEG, MP4, etc.? You need a M2TS Video Converter (Windows Version / Mac Version) to convert M2TS to AVI, convert M2TS to WMV, convert M2TS to MPEG, convert M2TS to MP4 so that you can put them on your Windows Movie Maker, iMove, iPod, iPhone, and other potable players.

To read more about M2TS Video Converter, please visit http://www.any-video-converter.com/

History of Laptops

Sunday, December 13th, 2009

The concept of laptops developed when more and more people were clamoring for a portable computer they can work with while traveling and carry it to different locations. The laptops that were initially introduced were somewhat crude and lacked the sophistication of the laptops as we know and see them today. They were very bulky, had very small displays, without hard drives and everything ran from the RAM or floppy disks.In 1981 the Osborne Computer Company released the first portable computer and called it Osborne 1. This laptop computer, when not in use and closed up, resembled a locked up sewing machine. It was powered by an electrical connection with an optional laptop battery backup. It had two 5 ¼” floppy drives (mounted to the right and left of the display), and included a modem port. The biggest drawback was the display was only 5-inches wide and could show only a limited 52 characters per line. Then in 1983, Gavilan introduced the Gavilan Mobile Computer. It was peculiarly built and the screen folded over the keyboard when closed. It weighed 9 pounds, and could run on nickel-cadmium batteries for close to 9 hours.Three years later in 1986,Radio Shack released the TRS – 80 Model 200 This model was more compact, had a much larger display and more effective laptop battery power, and included built-in software. People used this model for creating simple documents and considered it to be pretty high tech at that time.A year later in 1987, IBM released its version of a laptop computer calling it the 5155 Portable Personal Computer. It had two double-sided 5 ¼” drives and 640K RAM. The 5155 however did not support graphics and was used for the limited processing of text-based information only.During 1988, Compaq introduced the SLT/286 Laptop which had overcome the graphics barrier. This model however weighed a hefty 14 pounds, had a 1.44 floppy drive and ‘286’ processor. NEC joined the fray with the NEC UltraLite, which weighed just 4.4 pounds and had overall dimensions of 11.75″ (W) X 1.4″ (H) X 8.3″ (D).Macintosh entered the laptop scenario in 1989 with their Portable that weighed around16 pounds and had a 9.8-inch 640 x 400 active matrix screen. Its redeeming feature was an operation time of close to 10 hours on a lead-acid battery. These early laptops from Macintosh later evolved into the PowerBook line and now the MacBook line.It was only in the 1990s we saw the faster, sleeker machines with more storage, more ports and connectors, improved displays, and weighing much less and comfortable enough to carry around. The Apple Macintosh PowerBook line and the IBM ThinkPads became major competitors in the laptop market.Companies now create new laptops with faster processors and more features packed in smaller packages and the laptopshave really come a long long way from the 1981 Osborne model. Since the 90’s the technology has helped to vastly improve the performance of laptop computers. Longer lasting laptop battery as well as huge hard drives now makes the Laptop a serious challenger to oust the desktop computers from the marketThe summer of 1995 was a watershed year in the history of laptop computers. In August of that year Microsoft introduced Windows 95. It was the first time that Microsoft had placed much of the power management control in the operating system. This move held a great deal in simplifying and stabilizing certain key aspects of notebook design. Windows 95 also brought in the importance of the CD-Rom drive in mobile computing, and initiated the shift to the Intel Pentium processor as the base platform for notebooks.

10 Ways to Extend Laptop Battery Life

Sunday, December 13th, 2009

1. Only run what you need. Keeping programs running in the background will require more system resources, and use more of the precious battery juice. There’s a reason that some programs load slower than others, and that’s because they need more system resources. Try to keep as few programs as possible open, and avoid programs that slow your computer down even at the best of times. 2. Kill extraneous process. It was thoughtful of Epson to install a little tray icon for you, and being able to turn your monitor display around 90 degrees is a useful feature of that ATI program that runs all day, every day, but chances are you can survive without them when on the move. Run msconfig and kill off some start-up options, and prune processes on task manager. If you haven’t got a net connection and aren’t planning to run unmarked EXEs from floppies given to you by strangers, chances are you can survive without your virus protection for the next few hours – turn it off as well. 3. Be gentle. If you need to use your pc for emails, writing or reading, don’t start your travels with a DVD or a video or a quick game of Counter-Strike – these and other high-drain applications will reduce your productivity dramatically, unless of course you intend to reply to your clients via the postal service. 4. Adjust your screen brightness. Let’s face it, a bright screen isn’t going to top up your tan that much – turn down the brightness on your display to the lowest level you can manage; this will make a massive difference to your power consumption. 5. Disable built-in hardware features you don’t need. Your laptop will have shipped with all sorts of ‘useful’ features turned on by default. This is fine, because usually you don’t stray more than a few feet from a power outlet. But when you are forced to, it’s time to start with the tough love. If there’s no wireless connection, you don’t need your wi-fi turned on, and come to that, you don’t need Bluetooth enabled either. Check for other built-in components that you could disable to conserve power. 6. Be careful with the external peripherals too. Unplug USB devices, PCMCIA devices and any other crazy things you’ve got plugged in, because your system uses power to interact with them, and because they draw power themselves to, you know, work. If you’re nowhere near a power outlet, now is not the time to power up iTunes and update your iPod. 7. Use power saving features carefully. Yep, this tip is basic, but there is a fundamental point to remember above the obvious – that standby mode still uses power. If your laptop supports it, use hibernate instead. This loads the contents of memory into a file on the hard drive, and then turns the system off. When you turn it back on again, the contents of your memory are restored, good as new. 8. Monitor operating temperature. Your battery is a lot less efficient when not within its standard operating temperature range, so if it’s sweltering and you can do what you need to do later, power the machine off and you will have more power in the long run. 9. Maintain the condition of your battery. Older nickel-based batteries work better if they are fully drained regularly, and all batteries have ideal charging patterns you can follow. Know the situation with your battery and, Defrag your hard drive. Even once you have turned everything off and got yourself a bare-bones system, you can’t avoid using the hard drive. But you can make it more efficient – defrag the drive so that read/write accesses are quicker. In particular, faster disk accesses mean that swap file memory will be more efficient, and quicker generally. 10.Of course, there’s no better tip than the one offered in one of the articles I read to research this one – “plug your laptop into the AC adapter”. Of course, plugging the adaptor into the wall may in turn improve this process even further. But sage as this advice may be, it’s not always practical. The best advice, however, is this – priority tasks and hardware considerations when power is short. Be smart and you’ll be typing away long after everyone else has given up and been forced to watch the whole of ‘Maid in Manhattan’ three times. Just think of the hours of therapy you’ll save

www.sale-batteries.co.uk

Consumer Reports – Desktop Computers

Saturday, December 12th, 2009

The desktop computer has become just another appliance you use every day. Replacement sales–not first-time purchases–now drive the computer market. Fully loaded desktops selling for less than $800 are common, even among established brands.

WHAT’S AVAILABLE

There are dozens of companies vying to put a new desktop in your home. Dell, eMachines, Gateway, Hewlett-Packard (which merged with Compaq in 2002), IBM, and Sony all make machines that use Microsoft’s dominant Windows operating system. eMachines, recently merged with Gateway, specializes in budget-priced Windows models. Apple is the sole maker of Macintosh models. Small mail-order and store brands cater to budget-minded buyers.

Price range: $400 to $3,000.

IMPORTANT FEATURES

The processor houses the “brains” of a computer. Its clock speed, measured in gigahertz (GHz), determines how fast the chip can process information. In general, the higher the clock speed, the faster the computer. But not always, since different chip families attain different efficiencies. Manufacturers of Windows machines generally use 1.6- to 3.8-GHz processors with one of the following names: Intel’s Pentium or Celeron, or AMD’s Athlon or Sempron. Celeron and Sempron are lower-priced processors that equal higher-priced chips in many respects. Intel now assigns “processor numbers” to its chips, de-emphasizing clock speed. Apple’s Macintosh machines use 1.25- to 2.5-GHz PowerPC G4 or G5 processors, which are manufactured by IBM. Apple has announced that they will begin a transition to Intel processors in 2006.The system architecture of some families of chips allows them to be as fast as or faster than others with higher clock speeds, so speed comparison by the numbers can be misleading.

All name-brand computers sold today have at least 256 megabytes (MB) of RAM, or random access memory, the memory the computer uses while in operation. Video RAM, also measured in megabytes, is secondary RAM essential for smooth video imaging and game play.

The hard drive is your computer’s long-term data storage system. Given the disk-space requirements of today’s multimedia games, digital photos, and video files, bigger is better. You’ll find hard drives ranging in size from 40 to 300 gigabytes (GB).

A CD-ROM drive has been standard on most desktops for many years. Commonly supplied now is a CD-RW (CD-rewriteable) drive, also known as a “burner” that lets you create backup files or make music compilations on a compact disc. A DVD-ROM drive brings full-length movies or action-packed multimedia games with full-motion video to the desktop. It complements the CD-RW drive on midline and higher-end systems, allowing you to copy CDs directly between the two drives. A DVD writer will also play CDs and CD-ROMs. Combo drives combine CD-writing and DVD-playing in a single drive, saving space. The newest in this family, rapidly becoming a common choice, is the DVD-writer, which lets you transfer home-video footage to a DVD disk, or store as much data as six CDs. There are three competing, incompatible DVD formats–DVD-RW, DVD+RW, and DVD-RAM–as well as drives that can create dual-layer DVDs that store twice as much. Some drives can write in more than one format, but all can create a disk that will play on standalone DVD players.

Fast disappearing is the diskette drive, where 3.5-inch diskettes are inserted. Apple Macintoshes and a growing number of PCs don’t have a diskette drive built in, because it only allows you to read or store relatively small amounts of data. Many people use a CD-RW as a large “diskette” drive to transport files. Many PCs now come with a digital camera memory-card reader that can also serve for file transfer. You can also get external drives or use a USB memory module that holds much more than a diskette.

The computer’s cathode ray tube (CRT) or flat-panel liquid crystal display (LCD) monitor contains the screen and displays the images sent from the graphics board–internal circuitry that processes the images. Monitors come in sizes (measured diagonally) ranging from 15 to 21 inches and larger. Seventeen-inch monitors are the most common. Apple’s eMac and iMac come with built-in monitors. Its Mac Mini comes without a monitor. LCD displays are now the most popular, taking less space and using less power than CRTs. Better LCD displays can use a Digital Video Interface (DVI) connection, found on many newer PCs.

The critical components of a desktop computer are usually housed in a case called a tower. A minitower is the typical configuration. More expensive machines have a midtower, which has extra room for upgrades. A microtower is a space-saving alternative that is usually less expensive. All-in-one computers, such as the Apple iMac, have no tower; everything but the keyboard and mouse is built into a small case that supports the monitor. Apple’s Power Mac line of computers has a tower. Apple’s newest model, the Mac Mini, has a space-saving design that puts everything but the monitor, keyboard, and mouse in a case about the size of a hardcover book. An “entertainment PC”–one with a TV tuner built in–comes in a case that is more like an audio or video component, made to fit in with other home-entertainment devices.

A mouse, a small device that fits in your hand and has a “tail” of wire that connects to the computer, moves the cursor (the pointer on the screen) via a rolling ball or a light sensor on its underside. Alternatives include a trackball, which is rolled with the fingers or palm in the direction you want the cursor to go; a pad, which lets you move the cursor by sliding a finger; a tablet, which uses a penlike stylus for input; and a joystick, used to play computer games.

Most computers come with a standard keyboard, although you can also buy one separately. Many keyboards have CD (or DVD) controls to pause playback, change tracks, and so on. Many also have keys to facilitate getting online, starting a search, launching programs, or retrieving e-mail. There are also wireless keyboards that let you move about as you type.

Multimedia computers for home use feature a high-fidelity sound system that amplifies music from CDs or downloaded music files, synthesized music, game sounds, and DVD-movie soundtracks. Speaker systems with a subwoofer have deeper, more powerful bass. Surround-sound systems can turn a PC into a home theater. Some computers come with a microphone for recording, or one can be added.

PCs come with a modem to allow a dial-up Internet connection. Parallel and serial ports are the traditional connections for printers and scanners. Universal Serial Bus (USB) ports, seen on all new computers, are designed to replace parallel and serial ports. FireWire or IEEE 1394 ports are used to capture video from digital camcorders and other electronic equipment. An Ethernet port or wireless network card lets you link several computers in the household to share files, a printer, or a broadband Internet connection. An S-video output jack lets you run a video cable from the computer to a television, which lets you use the computer’s DVD drive to view a movie on a TV instead of on the computer monitor.

HOW TO CHOOSE

First, decide whether to upgrade your current computer. Upgrading, rather than replacing it, may make sense if your additional needs are modest–a second hard drive, say, because you’re running out of room for digital photos. Adding memory or a CD burner is usually more cost-effective than buying a whole new machine. If your PC has become unreliable, your want list is more demanding, or if there’s software you must run that your system is not up to, a new PC is the logical answer.

Consider a laptop. A desktop computer typically costs hundreds less and is easier to upgrade, expand, and repair. It usually offers better ergonomics, such as a more comfortable keyboard, bigger display, and enhanced audio. But a laptop merits consideration if portability and compactness are priorities.

Pick the right type of desktop. Most manufacturers offer several lines at different price points. Budget computers are the least expensive, yet they are suitable for routine work. Workhorse computers cost a few hundred dollars more, but are faster, more versatile, and upgradable. All-in-one models have most of the components in a single case. And entertainment or media PCs include TV tuners and software that give them the functions of a DVR. They usually provide a remote control for easy operation.

Choose by brand. Our surveys have consistently shown notable differences in reliability and technical support among computer brands. And some brands are generally more expensive than others. Those factors could help you decide which of two similarly equipped computers is the better buy.

Choose between preconfigured and custom built. You can buy a PC off the shelf in a store or via the Web, configured with features and options the manufacturer pitches to average consumers. Or consider purchasing a desktop that you configure to order, either online or in a store. When you configure a computer to order online, onscreen menus typically show you all the options and let you see how a change in one option affects the overall price.

Copyright © 2002-2006 Consumers Union of U.S., Inc.

For the latest information on this and many other products and services, visit www.ConsumerReports.org.

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Digital Video Cameras — More Fun Than Ever

Saturday, December 12th, 2009

With your trusty digital video camera by your side you can capture all those special moments, such your child’s first steps, your birthday or wedding, or your vacation with family and friends etc.

With so many manufacturers and models available in the digital video market, you may find it confusing trying to choose the perfect one for you. Your choice will, however, depend on the features that you want and how much you are willing to spend.

The most important thing to consider is the format in which your videos will be stored, as the video format determines the video quality. Digital 8 otherwise called D8, Mini-DV, DVD and HDD are the main types of video format that digital cameras offer. Both D8 and Mini-DV are tape-based formats, with the Mini-DV currently offering the highest quality video format to consumers. The DVD format allows direct video recording onto a digital disk, while the HDD type uses internal hard drives where the video is recorded. As the tape format is slowly being phased out by major manufacturers, it is a good idea to invest in disk or hard drive based digital video cameras.

Digital video cameras also come with charged coupled device or CCD imaging sensor. Digital video cameras come with 1-CCD or 3-CCD features. Cameras with 1-CCD suffer from poor video quality, whereas 3-CCD cameras produce much better quality videos. Most professional camcorders use the 3-CCD technology, thus making them more expensive than the other models.

The optical zoom feature of the camcorder lens generally ranges from 10X to 20X. The choice of zoom depends on how close you want to get to the action. Some digital video cameras also allow still photography at various resolutions, and some camcorders offer both video and still photography features. Some digital video camcorders have in-built flash for low-light photography, while some video cameras come with a ‘Night Shot’ feature. Other popular options include external flashlights, external microphones and external storage devices that can be attached onto the camcorder.

Camcorders with longer battery strength is also recommended. Digital video cameras have battery life ranging from 4 to 8 hours of continuous shooting. However, using the zoom or any external devices reduce the battery strength.

All cameras nowadays come bundled with a digital video editing software. But if you are not satisfied with the one provided, you can always buy a better and more expensive editing software from Adobe or any other reputable brand.

Video camera prices today vary from $500 to $4000, with Sony, JVC and Canon being the more popular brands.

Digital Video Cameras – More Fun Than Ever

Friday, December 11th, 2009

The most important thing to consider is the format in which your videos will be stored, as the video format determines the video quality. Digital 8 otherwise called D8, Mini-DV, DVD and HDD are the main types of video format that digital cameras offer. Both D8 and Mini-DV are tape-based formats, with the Mini-DV currently offering the highest quality video format to consumers. The DVD format allows direct video recording onto a digital disk, while the HDD type uses internal hard drives where the video is recorded. As the tape format is slowly being phased out by major manufacturers, it is a good idea to invest in disk or hard drive based digital video cameras.

Digital video cameras also come with charged coupled device or CCD imaging sensor. Digital video cameras come with 1-CCD or 3-CCD features. Cameras with 1-CCD suffer from poor video quality, whereas 3-CCD cameras produce much better quality videos. Most professional camcorders use the 3-CCD technology, thus making them more expensive than the other models.

The optical zoom feature of the camcorder lens generally ranges from 10X to 20X. The choice of zoom depends on how close you want to get to the action. Some digital video cameras also allow still photography at various resolutions, and some camcorders offer both video and still photography features. Some digital video camcorders have in-built flash for low-light photography, while some video cameras come with a ‘Night Shot’ feature. Other popular options include external flashlights, external microphones and external storage devices that can be attached onto the camcorder.

Camcorders with longer battery strength is also recommended. Digital video cameras have battery life ranging from 4 to 8 hours of continuous shooting. However, using the zoom or any external devices reduce the battery strength.

All cameras nowadays come bundled with a digital video editing software. But if you are not satisfied with the one provided, you can always buy a better and more expensive editing software from Adobe or any other reputable brand.

Video camera prices today vary from $500 to $4000, with Sony, JVC and Canon being the more popular brands.

Plasma Television Buying Guide

Friday, December 11th, 2009

IntroductionIn six short sections, we’ll help guide you towards making informed choices on buying the plasma TV you need for your home theater or living room, tradeshow application, business or retail display, or executive and corporate boardroom.The sections in this Buying Guide are arranged in an order and progression that we feel is most helpful in imparting key information towards a plasma TV purchase. First, we’ll take a look at the kind of environment in which you are setting up the plasma display. Next, we’ll see what kind of content you intend to watch on the TV and what sort of A/V devices you’ll be using to determine the plasma type for your needs. Then, we’ll check out important plasma specs you should know about and installation issues to pay attention to. Lastly, we’ll take a quick look at pricing and other cost issues that you may want to consider.Ready? Let’s begin.The Plasma TV EnvironmentCalculating the Correct Distance In setting up the environment for your plasma TV, a primary consideration is to determine the screen size to match the floor plan or available space where the plasma will be displayed.Plasma monitors are measured diagonally across the screen, just like any other television set. You can typically choose from the following sizes: 32″, 40″, 42″, 46″, 50″, 61″, or 63″. Bigger is not always better, and a certain distance must be maintained between the plasma TV and the viewing area for optimal viewing experience. Sitting too far away diminishes the overall impact. Sitting too close, however, could also present its own problems as when you start seeing the screen’s “structure”; i.e., the dots or pixels that make up the plasma display. The right distance depends on the size of your TV.- For 32″ to 37″ TVs, 6 to 10 feet from the screen is needed.- For 42″ to 46″ TVs, 10 to 14 feet from the screen is needed.- For 50″ TVs, 12 to 16 feet from the screen is needed.- For 60″ and larger TVs, at least 15 feet of space from the screen is needed.In determining the appropriate TV size for you, you should also consider the space required to install the unit itself. When recessing a plasma display unit, allow at least 3 inches of open space at the top of the unit and adequate ventilation space of at least 2 inches behind it as well. Remember, too, that most plasma displays do not have built-in speakers, so you’ll need to allow space enough to attach speakers.Viewing Angles: More on TV Placement Viewing angle is another factor that affects the viewing experience. Today’s plasma TVs offer viewing angles approaching (and sometimes exceeding) 170 degrees. This is much better than viewing angles for LCD displays and rear-projection TVs, and the wide viewing angles for plasma displays translates to a bright, clear picture for anyone in the room no matter where they’re sitting.Room Lighting and the TV Picture Lighting is also important in the area where your plasma TV is set up. Plasma TVs generally do a fine job in rooms with regular indoor lighting, but optimal viewing may not be possible in areas with too much direct sunlight. Thus, windows that let in direct sunlight should have easily adjustable blinds or curtains that can eliminate reflections off the screen. Light from a window behind the TV also makes it difficult for the eyes to adjust to the very brightness of the screen, and window treatments are recommended in such cases. A little bit of controlled background lighting could also be helpful, as the background light gives the black portions of the picture a deeper, darker look.Altitude May Increase Noise Levels If you live in Denver, Santa Fe or other areas above 6,000 feet, be aware that some plasma displays may start exhibiting operational noise. This is due to increased pressure on the gases contained in the glass substrate of the plasma, a phenomenon that makes the unit work harder to cool the display element. Check to see if the manufacturer has a maximum altitude rating if you are setting up the plasma in high-elevation areas.What You Can Watch on Your Plasma TVYou can choose between HDTV (High Definition TV) and EDTV (Enhanced Definition TV) for your choice of plasma display. Which type you prefer depends on the kind of material you intend to watch on the plasma.EDTV is the perfect entry point into digital television, with a widescreen 16:9 aspect ratio and an image resolution that is 200% better than today’s analog televisions. On the other hand, HDTV has up to four times the resolution and colors compared to EDTV, offering the ultimate visual and sound experience.At present, only a limited number of programs are broadcast in true high-definition format (all major networks broadcast HD counterparts to their regular analog-signal broadcasts). In fact, if you plan to use a plasma HDTV for regular TV programming, you may be surprised to find that regular TV programming may even appear slightly worse, as the big screen exaggerates the flaws in standard TV programs. DVD images from most of the currently available DVD titles on the market today also do not fare as well on true HD plasmas. In fact, these DVD images appear better on EDTV plasma units, because the image resolution of a widescreen DVD (nominally 740 x 480) more closely matches the actual resolution (852 x 480) of the EDTV plasma display.Why bother with a High Definition TV at all, you may ask? Because HDTV, paired with a true High-Definition or high-quality source, can produce truly stunning images. With a progressive-scan DVD player paired with, say, any of the recently released HD-DVD or forthcoming Blu-ray DVD titles (encoded in true HD format), your plasma HDTV can come to spectacular life and bring out unrivaled image quality. And as more TV programming becomes available in High-Definition format with the looming of the FCC deadline for switching to all-digital broadcasting, plasma HDTV sets will have more TV content to show. One thing’s for sure: Your HDTV won’t be obsolete anytime in the next few years.Devices for your Plasma TVWith today’s plasma TV models, almost all of them will have multiple inputs that allow connection of various devices, with 32″ or larger screens having inputs for connecting six or more different A/V components. Which video components do you have now, and which do you plan to add in the future?At the very least, you’ll probably want to connect your antenna or cable box, plus a DVD player and perhaps a VCR. Other possibilities include a satellite TV receiver, video game system, or TiVo hard disk recorder. And if you use a camcorder, you will definitely want a set of front-panel A/V inputs on your new TV.The newer plasma TVs will include digital inputs such as HDMI or DVI, which can accept HDTV signals from your cable box or satellite (and even some DVD players) in an all-digital format. Some plasma TVs also include a VGA or DVI PC input, which allows your plasma unit to pull double-duty as a PC monitor.Connection tip: If you route your video signals through your home theater receiver, you can connect even more video sources. Most home theater receivers provide Composite Video inputs and outputs to enable video switching, making it easy to choose from among your video sources. If yours does, you may be able to connect your video components to your receiver, which will then send the selected video signal to your TV. Many receivers have S-Video connections as well, and some even include Component Video switching.Plasma TV Specifications When comparing plasma TV sets, it’s important to know what to look for to make sense of the specifications you’re presented with. Below is a quick rundown on the necessary specs that you need to weigh before making that all-important purchase decision.Resolution: Resolution is a determining factor in selecting a plasma TV. Do you want HDTV or EDTV? HDTV, with a resolution of at least 1024 x 720, is the ultimate visual and sound experience, but what is available for viewing on HD is currently restricted to a few HD channels on cable, as well as the newly emerging and necessarily few DVD titles from the HD-DVD and Blu-ray DVD formats. On the other hand, most of the currently available DVDs actually play better when viewed on EDTV, because the image resolution of a widescreen DVD (nominally 740 x 480) more closely matches the actual resolution (852 x 480) of the EDTV plasma display. Choosing the type of plasma TV that you want, therefore, is a question that should be considered along with the type of content you frequently watch or will be watching on your plasma.Inputs: A plasma television should work with any existing video component with standard A/V, S-Video, or Component Video outputs. In addition, most plasma TVs have DVI or HDMI connections for use with high-definition sources. Some plasma TVs also have VGA input connections that allow them to be used as monitors for a PC. At the minimum, look for the following specifications on a plasma connection: DVI-I or DVI-D, Component, RCA or Composite, and S-Video. Take into consideration your current component set-up such as your satellite system, cable box, DVD player, and external stereo components and see what kind of inputs or connectors they use.Tuner: Check your plasma to see if it is HD-ready or HD-integrated. An HD-ready plasma TV is essentially a monitor that needs an external tuner source before it can function as a TV. An HD-integrated panel has a tuner built into the set and is ready for use. If you receive your HDTV programming via cable or satellite instead of over-the-air, you may not need a tuner at all, as you will be using the set-top boxes provided by your cable/satellite service to receive HDTV programming. Check with your cable or satellite providers for more details. Some cable/satellite companies do away with set-top boxes and provide their subscribers with cable cards instead. Check with your cable/satellite provider if they provide cable cards and the cable-card type that they offer, and then check the specification on the plasma for cable card slots.Contrast Ratio: Contrast ratio is the measurement that determines the variation between the whitest and darkest parts of the image. This is an important specification, since plasma TVs with a low contrast ratio will make dark images look muddy and gray while making light images look washed out. A good measure of contrast ratio is 1,000:1 or higher. Anything less than 1,000:1 especially on a set that is 42″ or larger may not provide optimal viewing experience.Brightness: Without sufficient brightness, your image will look muddy and soft even in a dark room. Viewing distance, screen size, and ambient room light will also affect the need for more brightness capability. A brightness rating listed at 550 cd/m2 or higher is good, but don’t get bogged down with the technical number listed. Instead, make sure that the screen is bright enough for your needs as you conduct your own visual inspection.Panel Life: Look for a minimum of 60,000 hours of panel life in your plasma specifications. This is the rating on how long it would take before your panel has half the brightness compared to when it was new. A 60,000-hour spec translates to approximately 20 years of viewing at 8 hours per day. (This approximation may vary, depending on the source and type of content, settings, environment, and use of your plasma TV.)Anti-burn-in/Pixel Shift: Burn-in refers to the remnants burned on to the screen after a static image has been left on the plasma for a long period of time. To minimize or prevent burn-in, determine if the plasma panel utilizes burn-in protection, such as power management settings, full-time picture or pixel shift (both vertical and horizontal) technologies, or automatic screensaver functions.Speakers: If you plan to use an external surround sound system, you won’t need audio speakers, but most plasma TV sets include speakers that rated anywhere from 7-12 Watts Pre-amp which is much better than that of conventional TVs and sufficient for most viewing. Check your plasma’s specifications to see if it comes with speakers and if the speakers are removable.Universal Remote: A universal remote can take the place of having one remote, so that it controls all the various components of your TV system, such as the DVD player, audio, cable/satellite etc. If you plan on buying a universal remote, check to see if it’s supported by the plasma set of your choice to make sure the plasma accepts universal remote devices.Power Consumption: Power consumption for plasmas range from 240 watts to over 500 watts, If you’re concerned with how much energy a plasma set may use, check its specifications to determine power consumption. Units tend to have higher wattage requirements as the screen increases. A good rule of thumb is to compare similar-sized units together; units with higher wattages tend to use inferior components as a rule.Installation and Mounting OptionsThere are basically two options for installing a plasma TV: Displaying it on a table stand, cart, or similarly equivalent horizontal surface; or hanging the Plasma TV (on a wall or from a ceiling, using wall mount fixtures).One of the major benefits of plasma TV is the flexibility of mounting and installation options that are available. However, because of the sheer size of the TV, mounting presents its own sets of issues that need to be taken into account.For wall (or ceiling) mounting, you will need two people (ideally), with at least one having enough experience to determine the strength of the wall, what is behind the wall, and the proper hardware to use; e.g., anchors, screws, etc. The last thing you need is to have your new Plasma TV fall off the wall and smash into bits because of improper wall mounting. Professional installation is highly recommended in this case.Below are various TV mounting options you might consider: Table Stands are popular for displaying plasma units. These units, however, are not one-size- fits-all appliances. Sometimes one is included with the TV itself; other times you have to purchase the stand separately. Most consumer-oriented plasma TVs come with their own matching table stand, used whenever there is enough tabletop space to support the TV. These units are custom-made to manufacturers’ specifications, as each plasma display has its own requirements on how the stand fits the plasma. The table stand allows for maximum flexibility, as nothing is permanently affixed to the wall. (Add graphic) Plasma TV Carts are typically used in business applications for trade shows and in-house presentations. Table carts are often used in a courtroom setting or to mobilize up to the edge of a boardroom table for maximum visual presentation. The table cart may include a platform for placing a DVD player, laptop computer, or VCR. (Add graphic) Flat Wall Mounts maximize the space-saving benefits of plasma technology. This is generally the least expensive option, and it adds less than two inches to the total depth of the plasma unit. It is used in home theaters, living rooms, or company boardrooms to achieve and maximally offset the sleek appearance that plasma displays are known for. (Add graphic) Tilt Wall Mounts let you place your plasma TV above eye level, keeping the unit out of the way but allowing it to be readily viewable from anywhere in the room. A tilt wall mount typically allows 15 to 20 degrees of tilt (depending on the brand of the wall mount). This option is often used to install plasma displays above fireplaces and in bedrooms, and is also used for overhead displays in retail or industry (with or without an attached ceiling bracket). The tilt wall mount adds from 4 to 6 inches to the depth of the mounted display. (Add graphic) Articulating Wall Mounts use swivel arms to render the plasma unit flush with the wall and out of the way when the unit is not in use. Pulled out, this mounting device allows you to turn the display 120 degrees to either side and as much as 10 degrees up or down. It adds between 3 or 4 inches to the depth of the plasma mount (depending on the manufacturer of the wall mount), and is used for maximum flexibility in sports bars, library studies, and commercial display operations. (Add graphic) Ceiling Mounts enable you to mount your plasma TV where you want it in case a wall isn’t available. This option is generally coupled with a tilt mount, so that the display can be adjusted downward for easier viewing. Lengths of ceiling mount poles vary according to customer needs, but standard lengths are from 24 to 43 inches. Ceiling mounts are usually used for airport displays, checkout counters, hospital rooms, and bedrooms. (Add graphic)Pricing and Other CostsPlasma TVs are expensive, but they do fall into a few distinct categories. Below is a rough guide to retail and online pricing for plasma units (current as of this writing, May 2006).- $1,000 to $1,500 buys you a plasma TV up to 42″- $1,500 to $3,000 buys you a plasma TV up to 50″- More than $3,000 buys you a plasma up to 65″Also: – Under $1,500 buys you a refurbished EDTV plasma- Under $2,000 buys you an EDTV plasma- More than $2,000 buys you an HDTV plasmaIn addition to the cost of the plasma TV itself, you may want to factor in the price of accessories, such as cables, surge protectors, additional audio equipment, furniture, and room treatments to arrive at a realistic cost outlay for your plasma TV purchase.Lastly, be aware of “standard” charges that apply to your purchase: a sales tax when the TV is bought at a brick-and-mortar establishment; shipping charges (especially if the TV is bought online); and delivery and/or set-up charges. Check and compare the manufacturer warranties for various plasma TV brands; extended warranties are always extra.